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Get rid of the cracks, weeds, and mud.

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Rubber Pavers

No more repairs, replacement or regret!

Claim FREE Paver Sample
4 fade-resistant colors, order now

Why Pick Rubber?

If you haven't already, you should consider rubber pavers for any space that needs safer footing, better comfort underfoot, and a cleaner aesthetic. Built for outdoor use, they hold up to weather and heavy traffic while staying slip-resistant and low maintenance. To top it off, ours are made from 100% recycled tires in the USA.

For Your Home

Unburden the Backyard

Say goodbye to your:

  • Cracked concrete paths
  • Chipped stepping stones
  • Slippery patios & pool decks
  • Punishing rock-hard surfaces
  • Puddles & poor drainage
  • Faded wooden planks

For Your Barn

Healthier Horses

You can stop dealing with:

  • Slippery & unsafe wash bays
  • Surfaces which are hard on joints
  • Trip hazards like cracks & chips
  • Muddy & messy rutted aisles
  • Excess noise & clatter
  • Hard to clean stains

For Your Business

Lower the Liability

Rid yourself of:

  • Slip-prone walkways
  • Constant pavement patchwork
  • Loud echoey entrances
  • Hard to clean hardscapes
  • Damage from carts & dollies
  • Boring colors & plain aesthetics

Rubber Paver Benefits

If you're tired of dealing with cracked concrete, slippery pool decks, or muddy barn aisles that never seem to drain, rubber pavers might be exactly what you're looking for. They're safer, more comfortable, and far easier to maintain than traditional hardscaping, and they hold up in climates where concrete and brick fail.

Stop worrying about slips and falls. Rubber pavers are naturally slip-resistant, even when wet. No coatings, no treatments, no reapplication. The cushioned surface also absorbs impact, reducing injury severity from falls by up to 40% compared to concrete. If you're surfacing a pool deck, patio, playground, or barn aisle, that peace of mind matters.

No more cracks, no more sealing. Freeze-thaw cycles destroy concrete. Water gets into the joints, freezes, expands, and fractures the surface from within. Rubber flexes with temperature swings instead of cracking, which is why most installations last 15 to 20 years without the recurring maintenance that concrete demands. Some last 25 years or longer.

Comfortable for people, pets, and horses. Hard surfaces cause fatigue. Rubber doesn't. Whether you're standing at a grill, your kids are running barefoot, or your horse is spending hours in a wash bay, the cushioned surface reduces joint strain and feels better underfoot. It's a difference you'll notice immediately.

Stays cooler in the sun. Concrete and asphalt can hit 130 to 150°F on a summer afternoon. Rubber pavers typically run 15 to 25°F cooler, which makes a real difference for bare feet, paws, and hooves. If heat is a concern, stick with lighter colors like gray or red.

Made from recycled tires. Every square foot uses roughly one recycled tire, keeping waste out of landfills and cutting manufacturing energy by 60 to 70% compared to virgin concrete. At end of life, the pavers are 100% recyclable. If sustainability matters to your project, this checks the box.

You can install them yourself. Rubber pavers are one of the most DIY-friendly hardscape options out there. Glue them down over concrete or asphalt, or loose-lay the interlocking version over compacted gravel. Most projects wrap up in two to three days, with no heavy equipment, no curing time, and no need to hire a crew. Not sure where to start? Our step-by-step installation guide walks you through the entire process.

Ready to see and feel the product for yourself? Order a free sample using the link below, and we'll ship it straight to your door.

Commercial Grade

Commercial Grade

20+ year lifespan

Safer Footing

Safer Footing

More friction for less slips

Multiple Colors

Multiple Colors

4 fade-resistant options

Weather Resistant

Weather Resistant

Rain, hail, snow or shine

100% Eco Friendly

100% Eco Friendly

Made from Recycled Tires

Made in the USA

Made in the USA

Manufactured in Lancaster, PA

Still unsure about rubber?

Find the Perfect Floor

Find the Perfect Floor Find the Perfect Floor

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Testimonials

Very heavy duty and good looking composite rubber paving. Couldn't be happier with my choice to buy these over some of the cheap ones I was browsing online.

Ralph H.

Victoria, TX

Added these to a small patio space and they made it more comfortable and less slippery. Drainage is solid and they’ve handled weather well so far. Looks tidy and feels safer. Really happy overall!

Susan J.

Santa Clarita, CA

These pavers a great. They are well made. Delivered great with no damage. I’m using them for a dog run and they hold up really well. I just put in my second order we love them so much.

Daniel L.

Tulsa, OK

Interactive tutorial:

Installing Rubber Pavers

Installing Rubber Pavers Installing Rubber Pavers
Step 1 of 1

Select Subfloor Material

Choose 1 of the 4 options below:

Concrete Concrete
Plywood Plywood
Asphalt Asphalt
Crushed Stone Crushed Stone
Concrete Concrete
Plywood Plywood
Asphalt Asphalt
Crushed Stone Crushed Stone

Pick installation type

There are two ways to install rubber pavers on concrete, both with unique advantages depending on your exact situation.

Glue-down method:

  • Required with the 1" pavers
  • Optional with the 1.75" pavers
  • Uses adhesive for a secure, permanent bond
  • Takes a little longer to install
  • Ideal for load-bearing areas with heavy traffic or vehicles

Loose-lay method:

  • Only works with 1.75" pavers
  • No adhesive required; pavers interlock and stay in place
  • Requires a perimeter reducer/edge/curb to contain the pavers
  • Works best on areas with low to moderate traffic

Check your concrete slab

Check your concrete slab for imperfections and structural issues prior to beginning installation. You want it to be:

  • Dry and clean
  • Smooth and level
  • Structurally sound

Repair any loose patches, major cracks, or soft spots.

Check your concrete slab

Clean & prep the concrete

Remove anything from the slab which could block adhesion or telegraph through. Be sure to:

  • Sweep, blow off, or vacuum the slab
  • Remove old adhesive, paint, sealers, grease, oil, or fuel spots as best as you can
  • Fill non-moving cracks and joints with Portland-based patching compound

NOTE: For adhered installations on concrete, use ECORE E-Grip III adhesive, which has a maximum Relative Humidity (RH) limit of 85% per ASTM F2170. This is the standard adhesive for most applications, including outdoors. If RH exceeds 85%, switch to ECORE E-Grip 95 (up to 95%) or ECORE E-Grip 99 (up to 99%) as needed.

Test concrete slab moisture prior to adhered installation if conditions are uncertain as excess vapor can cause bonding issues.

Clean & prep the concrete

Acclimate materials

Prior to installing, store your materials between 65-100°F (18-38°C) for 48 hours to prep them for the installation. During the install, try to avoid extreme temperature swings and direct sun where possible.

Acclimate materials

Snap your layout lines

To help keep the layout square, use a chalk line on your slab:

  • Measure the space and divide it into 4 quadrants
  • Snap two perpendicular chalk lines that cross near the center
  • Adjust your starting point so prevent tiny cut pieces at edges
Snap your layout lines

Spread adhesive

NOTE: If going with the loose-lay method, skip ahead to the next step.

For glue-down installs over concrete:

  • Use a 1/8" square-notch trowel to spread the adhesive evenly
  • Work in sections you can spread and cover within 30 minutes
  • Aim for roughly 60 square feet of coverage per 1-gallon of adhesive
  • Avoid puddles or dry spots—keep the layer even and consistent

Lay pavers

Lay the pavers based on your installation choice.

Glue-down method:

  • Place the first paver where the chalk lines cross
  • Continue laying toward the perimeter, keeping joints tight
  • Use a jigsaw or a bandsaw to trim the perimeter pavers
  • Wipe any spilled adhesive using mineral spirits or acetone

Loose-lay method:

  • Install a perimeter reducer/edge/curb first
  • Place the first paver where the chalk lines cross
  • Continue laying toward the perimeter, keeping joints tight
  • Use a jigsaw or bandsaw to trim the perimeter pavers
  • Ensure the perimeter border fully contains all pavers
Lay pavers

Pick installation type

NOTE: Installing on plywood is only permitted for indoor installations.

There are two ways to install rubber pavers on plywood, both with unique advantages depending on your exact situation.

Glue-down method:

  • Required with the 1" pavers
  • Optional with the 1.75" pavers
  • Uses adhesive for a secure, permanent bond
  • Takes a little longer to install
  • Ideal for load-bearing areas with heavy traffic or vehicles

Loose-lay method:

  • Only works with 1.75" pavers
  • No adhesive required; pavers interlock and stay in place
  • Requires a perimeter reducer/edge/curb to contain the pavers
  • Works best on areas with low to moderate traffic

Check your plywood

When installing over plywood, the structure underneath matters. Make sure it’s:

  • Double-layer wood construction with at least 1" total thickness
  • Rigid and free from noticeable flex or bounce
  • Clean, dry, and securely fastened with no loose panels

Avoid particle board, OSB, Masonite, or lauan as they’re not suitable subfloors.

Check your plywood

Clean & prep the plywood

A clean, smooth plywood underlayment helps pavers sit flat.

  • Tighten screws or nails and replace any damaged sheets
  • Make sure seams are as level as possible
  • Sweep and/or vacuum to remove dust and debris
Clean & prep the plywood

Acclimate materials

For indoor installs, keep both pavers and adhesive in the installation space at 65-100°F (18-38°C) for at least 48 hours. Keeping the room weather-tight and climate-controlled helps minimize expansion and contraction during and after install.

Acclimate materials

Snap your layout lines

To help keep the layout square, use a chalk line on the plywood:

  • Measure the space and divide it into 4 quadrants
  • Snap two perpendicular chalk lines that cross near the center
  • Adjust the lines slightly to prevent paver slivers on the perimeter
Snap your layout lines

Spread adhesive

NOTE: If going with the loose-lay method, skip ahead to the next step.

For glue-down installs over plywood:

  • Use a 1/8" square-notch trowel to spread the adhesive evenly
  • Work in manageable sections you can cover in about 30 minutes
  • Expect roughly 60 square feet of coverage per 1-gallon of adhesive
Spread adhesive

Lay pavers

Lay the pavers based on your installation choice.

Glue-down method:

  • Place the first paver where the chalk lines cross
  • Continue laying outward, keeping joints tight and rows aligned
  • Cut perimeter pieces with a jigsaw or bandsaw as needed
  • Wipe any spilled adhesive using mineral spirits or acetone

Loose-lay method:

  • Install a perimeter reducer/edge/curb first
  • Start at the chalk-line intersection and work toward the perimeter
  • Keep joints tight; trim at edges as needed
  • Ensure the perimeter border fully contains all pavers
Lay pavers

Pick installation type

There are two ways to install rubber pavers on asphalt, both with unique advantages depending on your exact situation.

Glue-down method:

  • Required with the 1" pavers
  • Optional with the 1.75" pavers
  • Uses adhesive for a secure, permanent bond
  • Takes a little longer to install
  • Ideal for load-bearing areas with heavy traffic or vehicles

Loose-lay method:

  • Only works with 1.75" pavers
  • No adhesive required; pavers interlock and stay in place
  • Requires a perimeter reducer/edge/curb to contain the pavers
  • Works best on areas with low to moderate traffic

Check your asphalt

Before installing over asphalt, make sure the surface is stable and well-built. You want it to be:

  • Firm underfoot, not soft or spongy
  • Free of major ruts, potholes, and loose material
  • Sloped so water doesn’t pool (ideally about 1" drop every 8 feet)

New asphalt should be allowed to cure for several weeks before you glue anything to it.

Check your asphalt

Clean & prep the asphalt

A clean surface helps pavers sit flat and helps adhesive (if used) bond correctly.

  • Sweep, blow off, or vacuum the asphalt
  • Remove old adhesive, paint, sealers, grease, oil, or fuel spots as best as you can
  • Let the surface dry completely before proceeding
Clean & prep the asphalt

Acclimate materials

Prior to installing, store your materials between 65-100°F (18-38°C) for 48 hours to prep them for the installation. During the install, try to avoid extreme temperature swings and direct sun where possible.

Acclimate materials

Snap your layout lines

Use a chalk line on the asphalt to help keep everything straight and square.

  • Measure the space and divide it into 4 quadrants
  • Snap two perpendicular chalk lines that cross near the center
  • Adjust your starting point so prevent tiny cut pieces at edges
Snap your layout lines

Spread adhesive

NOTE: If going with the loose-lay method, skip ahead to the next step.

When gluing down, get yourself a 1/8" square-notch trowel to spread the adhesive over the asphalt:

  • Work in sections you can spread and cover within 30 minutes
  • Aim for roughly 60 square feet of coverage per 1-gallon of adhesive
  • Avoid puddles or dry spots—keep the layer even and consistent
Spread adhesive

Lay pavers

Lay the pavers based on your installation choice.

Glue-down method:

  • Place the first paver where the chalk lines cross
  • Continue laying toward the perimeter, keeping joints tight
  • Use a jigsaw or a bandsaw to trim the perimeter pavers
  • Wipe any spilled adhesive using mineral spirits or acetone

Loose-lay method:

  • Install a perimeter reducer/edge/curb to lock the field in place
  • Place the first paver at the chalk-line intersection
  • Continue laying toward the edges, keeping joints tight
  • Use a jigsaw or a bandsaw to trim the perimeter pavers
  • Ensure the perimeter border fully contains all pavers
Lay pavers

Confirm area is suitable

NOTE: Installing on crushed stone is only permitted with the 1.75" pavers.

A compacted crushed stone base is ideal when you don’t have an existing slab and want a free‑draining outdoor surface.

  • Only use 1.75" interlocking pavers on this type of base
  • Expect a loose-lay installation with a solid border or curb
  • Be aware that poorly compacted bases can settle over time

Excavate & prep the ground

Create room for a stable base and the pavers themselves.

  • Excavate roughly 9" below your desired finished paver height
  • Remove topsoil, roots, and organic material
  • Aim for a consistent depth across the whole project area
Excavate & prep the ground

Build & compact stone base

The base is what keeps everything stable.

  • Add about 6" of compacted crushed stone
  • Top it with roughly 1" of stone dust or similar bedding material
  • Compact each layer thoroughly and maintain a slight slope so water runs off instead of pooling
Build & compact stone base

Screed the top layer

The final bedding layer should be smooth and even.

  • Use straight boards or rails and a screed to level the stone dust
  • Avoid walking on the finished screeded surface to keep it flat
  • Fix any visible high or low spots before placing pavers
Screed the top layer

Install your perimeter

With loose-lay pavers on stone, the border does the holding.

  • Install a perimeter reducer, edge, curb, or similar restraint
  • Make sure it’s securely anchored and follows your layout shape
  • Check that the border height will fully contain the pavers once installed
Install your perimeter

Acclimate materials

Prior to installing, store your materials between 65-100°F (18-38°C) for 48 hours to prep them for the installation. During the install, try to avoid extreme temperature swings and direct sun where possible.

Acclimate materials

Snap your layout lines

Even over stone, layout lines keep things looking straight and intentional.

  • Measure the space and divide it into 4 quadrants
  • Snap two perpendicular chalk lines that cross near the center
  • Adjust your starting point so prevent tiny cut pieces at edges
Snap your layout lines

Lay pavers

Lay your pavers onto the crushed stone base:

  • Place the first paver where the chalk lines cross
  • Work outward toward the border, keeping joints tight and rows aligned
  • Cut pavers at the perimeter or around features with a jigsaw or bandsaw
  • Confirm the border fully contains and supports the paver field
Lay pavers

Installation Complete!

You now know what it takes to install a rubber paver system.

Installation Complete!
Get FREE Paver

There are two ways to install rubber pavers on concrete, both with unique advantages depending on your exact situation.

Glue-down method:

  • Required with the 1" pavers
  • Optional with the 1.75" pavers
  • Uses adhesive for a secure, permanent bond
  • Takes a little longer to install
  • Ideal for load-bearing areas with heavy traffic or vehicles

Loose-lay method:

  • Only works with 1.75" pavers
  • No adhesive required; pavers interlock and stay in place
  • Requires a perimeter reducer/edge/curb to contain the pavers
  • Works best on areas with low to moderate traffic

Check your concrete slab for imperfections and structural issues prior to beginning installation. You want it to be:

  • Dry and clean
  • Smooth and level
  • Structurally sound

Repair any loose patches, major cracks, or soft spots.

Check your concrete slab

Remove anything from the slab which could block adhesion or telegraph through. Be sure to:

  • Sweep, blow off, or vacuum the slab
  • Remove old adhesive, paint, sealers, grease, oil, or fuel spots as best as you can
  • Fill non-moving cracks and joints with Portland-based patching compound

NOTE: For adhered installations on concrete, use ECORE E-Grip III adhesive, which has a maximum Relative Humidity (RH) limit of 85% per ASTM F2170. This is the standard adhesive for most applications, including outdoors. If RH exceeds 85%, switch to ECORE E-Grip 95 (up to 95%) or ECORE E-Grip 99 (up to 99%) as needed.

Test concrete slab moisture prior to adhered installation if conditions are uncertain as excess vapor can cause bonding issues.

Clean & prep the concrete

Prior to installing, store your materials between 65-100°F (18-38°C) for 48 hours to prep them for the installation. During the install, try to avoid extreme temperature swings and direct sun where possible.

Acclimate materials

To help keep the layout square, use a chalk line on your slab:

  • Measure the space and divide it into 4 quadrants
  • Snap two perpendicular chalk lines that cross near the center
  • Adjust your starting point so prevent tiny cut pieces at edges
Snap your layout lines

NOTE: If going with the loose-lay method, skip ahead to the next step.

For glue-down installs over concrete:

  • Use a 1/8" square-notch trowel to spread the adhesive evenly
  • Work in sections you can spread and cover within 30 minutes
  • Aim for roughly 60 square feet of coverage per 1-gallon of adhesive
  • Avoid puddles or dry spots—keep the layer even and consistent

Lay the pavers based on your installation choice.

Glue-down method:

  • Place the first paver where the chalk lines cross
  • Continue laying toward the perimeter, keeping joints tight
  • Use a jigsaw or a bandsaw to trim the perimeter pavers
  • Wipe any spilled adhesive using mineral spirits or acetone

Loose-lay method:

  • Install a perimeter reducer/edge/curb first
  • Place the first paver where the chalk lines cross
  • Continue laying toward the perimeter, keeping joints tight
  • Use a jigsaw or bandsaw to trim the perimeter pavers
  • Ensure the perimeter border fully contains all pavers
Lay pavers

NOTE: Installing on plywood is only permitted for indoor installations.

There are two ways to install rubber pavers on plywood, both with unique advantages depending on your exact situation.

Glue-down method:

  • Required with the 1" pavers
  • Optional with the 1.75" pavers
  • Uses adhesive for a secure, permanent bond
  • Takes a little longer to install
  • Ideal for load-bearing areas with heavy traffic or vehicles

Loose-lay method:

  • Only works with 1.75" pavers
  • No adhesive required; pavers interlock and stay in place
  • Requires a perimeter reducer/edge/curb to contain the pavers
  • Works best on areas with low to moderate traffic

When installing over plywood, the structure underneath matters. Make sure it’s:

  • Double-layer wood construction with at least 1" total thickness
  • Rigid and free from noticeable flex or bounce
  • Clean, dry, and securely fastened with no loose panels

Avoid particle board, OSB, Masonite, or lauan as they’re not suitable subfloors.

Check your plywood

A clean, smooth plywood underlayment helps pavers sit flat.

  • Tighten screws or nails and replace any damaged sheets
  • Make sure seams are as level as possible
  • Sweep and/or vacuum to remove dust and debris
Clean & prep the plywood

For indoor installs, keep both pavers and adhesive in the installation space at 65-100°F (18-38°C) for at least 48 hours. Keeping the room weather-tight and climate-controlled helps minimize expansion and contraction during and after install.

Acclimate materials

To help keep the layout square, use a chalk line on the plywood:

  • Measure the space and divide it into 4 quadrants
  • Snap two perpendicular chalk lines that cross near the center
  • Adjust the lines slightly to prevent paver slivers on the perimeter
Snap your layout lines

NOTE: If going with the loose-lay method, skip ahead to the next step.

For glue-down installs over plywood:

  • Use a 1/8" square-notch trowel to spread the adhesive evenly
  • Work in manageable sections you can cover in about 30 minutes
  • Expect roughly 60 square feet of coverage per 1-gallon of adhesive
Spread adhesive

Lay the pavers based on your installation choice.

Glue-down method:

  • Place the first paver where the chalk lines cross
  • Continue laying outward, keeping joints tight and rows aligned
  • Cut perimeter pieces with a jigsaw or bandsaw as needed
  • Wipe any spilled adhesive using mineral spirits or acetone

Loose-lay method:

  • Install a perimeter reducer/edge/curb first
  • Start at the chalk-line intersection and work toward the perimeter
  • Keep joints tight; trim at edges as needed
  • Ensure the perimeter border fully contains all pavers
Lay pavers

There are two ways to install rubber pavers on asphalt, both with unique advantages depending on your exact situation.

Glue-down method:

  • Required with the 1" pavers
  • Optional with the 1.75" pavers
  • Uses adhesive for a secure, permanent bond
  • Takes a little longer to install
  • Ideal for load-bearing areas with heavy traffic or vehicles

Loose-lay method:

  • Only works with 1.75" pavers
  • No adhesive required; pavers interlock and stay in place
  • Requires a perimeter reducer/edge/curb to contain the pavers
  • Works best on areas with low to moderate traffic

Before installing over asphalt, make sure the surface is stable and well-built. You want it to be:

  • Firm underfoot, not soft or spongy
  • Free of major ruts, potholes, and loose material
  • Sloped so water doesn’t pool (ideally about 1" drop every 8 feet)

New asphalt should be allowed to cure for several weeks before you glue anything to it.

Check your asphalt

A clean surface helps pavers sit flat and helps adhesive (if used) bond correctly.

  • Sweep, blow off, or vacuum the asphalt
  • Remove old adhesive, paint, sealers, grease, oil, or fuel spots as best as you can
  • Let the surface dry completely before proceeding
Clean & prep the asphalt

Prior to installing, store your materials between 65-100°F (18-38°C) for 48 hours to prep them for the installation. During the install, try to avoid extreme temperature swings and direct sun where possible.

Acclimate materials

Use a chalk line on the asphalt to help keep everything straight and square.

  • Measure the space and divide it into 4 quadrants
  • Snap two perpendicular chalk lines that cross near the center
  • Adjust your starting point so prevent tiny cut pieces at edges
Snap your layout lines

NOTE: If going with the loose-lay method, skip ahead to the next step.

When gluing down, get yourself a 1/8" square-notch trowel to spread the adhesive over the asphalt:

  • Work in sections you can spread and cover within 30 minutes
  • Aim for roughly 60 square feet of coverage per 1-gallon of adhesive
  • Avoid puddles or dry spots—keep the layer even and consistent
Spread adhesive

Lay the pavers based on your installation choice.

Glue-down method:

  • Place the first paver where the chalk lines cross
  • Continue laying toward the perimeter, keeping joints tight
  • Use a jigsaw or a bandsaw to trim the perimeter pavers
  • Wipe any spilled adhesive using mineral spirits or acetone

Loose-lay method:

  • Install a perimeter reducer/edge/curb to lock the field in place
  • Place the first paver at the chalk-line intersection
  • Continue laying toward the edges, keeping joints tight
  • Use a jigsaw or a bandsaw to trim the perimeter pavers
  • Ensure the perimeter border fully contains all pavers
Lay pavers

NOTE: Installing on crushed stone is only permitted with the 1.75" pavers.

A compacted crushed stone base is ideal when you don’t have an existing slab and want a free‑draining outdoor surface.

  • Only use 1.75" interlocking pavers on this type of base
  • Expect a loose-lay installation with a solid border or curb
  • Be aware that poorly compacted bases can settle over time

Create room for a stable base and the pavers themselves.

  • Excavate roughly 9" below your desired finished paver height
  • Remove topsoil, roots, and organic material
  • Aim for a consistent depth across the whole project area
Excavate & prep the ground

The base is what keeps everything stable.

  • Add about 6" of compacted crushed stone
  • Top it with roughly 1" of stone dust or similar bedding material
  • Compact each layer thoroughly and maintain a slight slope so water runs off instead of pooling
Build & compact stone base

The final bedding layer should be smooth and even.

  • Use straight boards or rails and a screed to level the stone dust
  • Avoid walking on the finished screeded surface to keep it flat
  • Fix any visible high or low spots before placing pavers
Screed the top layer

With loose-lay pavers on stone, the border does the holding.

  • Install a perimeter reducer, edge, curb, or similar restraint
  • Make sure it’s securely anchored and follows your layout shape
  • Check that the border height will fully contain the pavers once installed
Install your perimeter

Prior to installing, store your materials between 65-100°F (18-38°C) for 48 hours to prep them for the installation. During the install, try to avoid extreme temperature swings and direct sun where possible.

Acclimate materials

Even over stone, layout lines keep things looking straight and intentional.

  • Measure the space and divide it into 4 quadrants
  • Snap two perpendicular chalk lines that cross near the center
  • Adjust your starting point so prevent tiny cut pieces at edges
Snap your layout lines

Lay your pavers onto the crushed stone base:

  • Place the first paver where the chalk lines cross
  • Work outward toward the border, keeping joints tight and rows aligned
  • Cut pavers at the perimeter or around features with a jigsaw or bandsaw
  • Confirm the border fully contains and supports the paver field
Lay pavers

Rubber Paver FAQ's

General Questions

Bottom line: Rubber pavers are a safer, more comfortable, lower-maintenance alternative to concrete, stone, or bricks. They offer strong slip resistance, handle cold-weather better, and are made from 100% recycled material.


Rubber pavers deliver a mix of safety, comfort, durability, and low maintenance that few other outdoor flooring options can match. Unlike concrete, which cracks in freeze-thaw cycles and requires regular sealing, or gravel, which shifts and needs constant raking, rubber pavers stay stable and functional for 15-20+ years with minimal upkeep.

The benefits most homeowners and facility managers notice right away are safety and comfort. Our ECORE rubber pavers provide superior slip-resistance, which is critical around pools, playgrounds, and entryways. They also have a shock-absorbing surface that reduces injury severity from falls by up to 40% compared to concrete or stone. That’s why gyms, daycares, senior communities, and equestrian facilities increasingly specify rubber pavers as a real advantage, not just a “nice to have.”

Beyond safety, rubber pavers are an environmental win. Made from recycled tires, roughly one tire per square foot, they divert waste from landfills while requiring 60-70% less energy to manufacture than virgin concrete. Permeable systems support stormwater management and can contribute to LEED certification, which makes them a strong fit for eco-conscious projects.

Key benefits at a glance:

  • Non-slip surface even when wet, naturally slip-resistant without coatings or treatments
  • Shock-absorbing cushioning that reduces joint strain for kids, seniors, and active users
  • Freeze-thaw resistant and won’t crack in cold climates, a critical advantage over concrete
  • Minimal maintenance, no sealing, no weeding, no chemical treatments required
  • Sustainable choice, made from recycled materials, 100% recyclable at end-of-life
Smiling man holding a tire around his neck amidst stacked tires in a warehouse setting

Bottom line: Our rubber pavers typically last 15–20+ years, and 25 years isn’t unusual with a proper base and normal upkeep. Additionally, rubber pavers don't require the recurring sealing and crack repairs you see with many rigid pavers.


ECORE rubber pavers are built for durability and typically last 15-20+ years under normal use, with many installs still performing reliably at 25 years. That long lifespan comes from rubber’s natural flexibility and its resistance to the kinds of environmental stress that wear down more rigid surfaces.

By comparison, concrete pavers often last 15-25 years, but they usually require regular sealing (about every 2-3 years) and you’ll commonly deal with cracks, settling, and joint issues over time. Brick can last 50-100 years, but that lifespan usually depends on consistent upkeep like joint repointing and sealing. Rubber pavers, on the other hand, tend to maintain their integrity without all those recurring maintenance steps.

One of the biggest reasons rubber pavers hold up well is freeze-thaw resistance. In cold climates like Colorado, Illinois, Ohio, and other northern states, water can seep into joints, freeze, and lead to heaving or cracking in concrete and other rigid pavers. Rubber’s flexibility lets it handle those temperature swings without cracking or shifting, which is a real advantage when winters are rough.

Installation matters, too. A proper base and basic maintenance (annual sweeping and an occasional rinse) help maximize lifespan. And when installed to spec with ECORE’s recommended adhesive, E-Grip III, you get a durable bond and a surface that shows minimal wear over decades.

Durability factors:

  • Freeze-thaw resistant, helps prevent cracking in cold climates where concrete often fails
  • No sealing required, unlike concrete that typically needs sealing every 2-3 years
  • Flexible material, absorbs stress instead of cracking under pressure or temperature changes
  • Minimal repair needs over its lifespan compared to concrete that often develops cracks needing patching
  • Color stability, UV-stabilized pigments help minimize fading over 15-20 years

Bottom line: Rubber pavers get warm in direct sun, but they usually run 15-25°F cooler than concrete, asphalt, bricks, or stone. They feel more tolerable underfoot, especially if you choose lighter colors.


Rubber pavers do warm up in direct sun, but they typically stay 15-25°F cooler than concrete on the surface. That’s a real advantage for pool decks, playgrounds, patios, and any area where people might be barefoot especially for kids or even pets.

Concrete, especially darker finishes, can hit 130-150°F on a hot, sunny day. At those temps, it’s not just “warm”, but can actually burn bare feet. Asphalt can get similarly hot. Rubber pavers generally feel more manageable because they don’t hold and radiate heat the same way dense, rigid materials like concrete, stone, or asphalt do.

Color matters too. Light shades stay cooler than dark shades, regardless of material. If heat is a concern, go lighter. Our gray and red rubber paver tend to be a smart pick for high-sun areas where barefoot use is common, while the black and green color options tend to get a little hotter in the sun.

There’s also a secondary benefit: cooler surfaces can mean less heat bouncing back into nearby spaces, which helps reduce heat buildup around homes, courtyards, and community spaces, and supports lower “heat island” impact in commercial settings.

Heat-related benefits:

  • 15-25°F cooler than concrete or asphalt in direct sun
  • More comfortable for kids and pets, especially for bare feet and paws
  • Color matters, lighter grays and earth tones stay cooler than dark colors
  • Reduced heat reflection, can help with overall site comfort and heat buildup
  • More comfortable on hot days when concrete can reach 130-150°F
Two children walking a dog off leash on either side of a brick path in a residential neighborhood.

Bottom line: Rubber pavers typically range from $10-$13 per square foot depending on thickness and quantity. That's comparable to premium pavers like bluestone or travertine, but with significantly lower lifetime costs due to the minimal maintenance requirements rubber pavers have.


The upfront cost of rubber pavers sits in the mid-to-premium range for outdoor flooring, around $10-13 per square foot. The real story however is total cost of ownership. Concrete may cost less initially ($6-$10/sq ft installed), but add in periodic sealing, crack repairs, and eventual replacement and the numbers flip.

Rubber pavers require no sealing, no chemical treatments, and typically last 15-20+ years without cracking or shifting. For most homeowners and facility managers, rubber pavers pay for themselves within 5-7 years through maintenance savings alone. We offer volume discounts for larger projects. Buy online or contact us for a quote.

Bottom line: Rubber pavers are naturally slip-resistant, even when wet. Their textured surface and inherent grip make them one of the safest choices for pool decks, entryways, barn aisles, and any area exposed to moisture.


Slip resistance is one of the top reasons people choose rubber pavers for pools, wash bays, and outdoor spaces. Unlike sealed concrete or smooth stone, rubber has a higher coefficient of friction allowing it to maintain traction when wet because of its porous texture and natural friction.

Our premium ECORE pavers are engineered with a surface profile that channels water away and provides grip underfoot—no coatings or treatments required. That's why they're specified for playgrounds, senior living facilities, equestrian wash stalls, and anywhere slip-and-fall prevention matters.

The rubber paver safety advantage:

  • Naturally slip-resistant—no coatings or treatments needed
  • Textured surface channels water and maintains grip when wet
  • Ideal for pool decks, entryways, wash bays, and playgrounds
  • Meets safety standards for high-traffic and high-moisture environments
  • Reduces slip-and-fall risk for kids, seniors, and animals

Bottom line: Yes—rubber pavers are safe and beneficial for animals. The cushioned, non-slip surface reduces joint stress, prevents slipping, and is gentle on hooves and paws without being too soft and hard to walk on.


Rubber pavers are a favorite in equestrian facilities, dog kennels, and veterinary clinics because they combine safety with comfort. For horses, the shock-absorbing surface eases strain on legs and joints during grooming, washing, and turnout—critical for animals that spend hours standing on hard surfaces.

The slip-resistant texture prevents falls in wash stalls and barn aisles, even when wet. For dogs and other pets, rubber provides a softer, cooler surface than concrete, reducing paw fatigue and overheating. The material is non-toxic, easy to clean, and stands up to heavy use without cracking or shifting.

Why rubber pavers are great for animals:

  • Shock-absorbing surface reduces joint and hoof stress for horses
  • Slip-resistant even when wet—ideal for wash stalls and barn aisles
  • Softer and cooler than concrete for dogs and pets
  • Non-toxic and safe for animals to stand, walk, and lie on
  • Easy to clean—hose off, sweep, or pressure wash

Bottom line: Rubber pavers are UV-stabilized and designed for outdoor use, so significant fading is rare. You may see slight mellowing over many years, but the color remains consistent and attractive long-term.


Our ECORE rubber pavers are manufactured with UV inhibitors built into the material, not just applied as a surface coating. This means the color is protected throughout the entire thickness of the paver, not just on top.

In real-world use, customers report that colors hold up well even in full-sun locations like pool decks and patios. Over 10-15+ years, you may notice some natural mellowing—similar to how a deck or stone patio develops character—but dramatic fading or discoloration is not typical. Darker colors (black, gray, brown) tend to show the least change over time.

Rubber pavers stay vibrant:

  • UV inhibitors built into the material for long-lasting color
  • Designed for full-sun outdoor use—patios, pool decks, playgrounds
  • Slight mellowing over many years is normal; dramatic fading is rare
  • Darker colors like black and green show the least change
  • Color is consistent throughout, not just on the surface

Bottom line: Yes, but use the right thickness. Our 1.75" rubber pavers are rated for vehicular traffic including cars, trucks, and light equipment. Standard 1" pavers are better suited for lighter occasional vehicle traffic and foot traffic.


If you're paving a driveway, parking area, or any surface where vehicles will drive or park, choose our 1.75" thick pavers. These are engineered to handle the weight and repeated stress of cars, trucks, golf carts, and light equipment without compressing or shifting.

For patios, walkways, pool decks, and other pedestrian-only areas, our standard 1" pavers are the right choice—they're lighter, easier to handle, and cost less. Not sure which you need? Our team can help you choose based on your specific project.

Rubber pavers for any use case:

  • 1.75" pavers: rated for cars, trucks, golf carts, and light equipment
  • 1" pavers: better suited for foot and hoof traffic
  • Vehicular-rated pavers won't compress, crack, or shift under load
  • Ideal for driveways, parking pads, and commercial loading areas
  • Contact us for guidance on thickness for mixed-use areas

Bottom line: Yes—our rubber pavers are made from 100% recycled commercial tires (about one tire per square foot) and are fully recyclable at end of life. They also require far less energy to manufacture than concrete or stone.


Sustainability is built into every rubber paver we sell. Each square foot diverts roughly one tire from landfills, and the manufacturing process uses 60-70% less energy than producing virgin concrete.

Beyond the material itself, rubber pavers support stormwater management when installed as permeable systems—water drains through the joints instead of running off into storm drains. For commercial projects, this can contribute to LEED certification and green building credits. At end of life (15-20+ years down the road), the pavers can be recycled again rather than ending up in a landfill.

The environment prefers rubber pavers:

  • Made from 100% recycled rubber, primarily reclaimed commercial tires
  • Approximately one recycled tire per square foot of paver
  • 60-70% less manufacturing energy
  • Contribute to LEED certification and green building credits

Installation Questions

Bottom line: Absolutely. Rubber paver installation is a true DIY project—no special tools or skills required. Most homeowners complete a patio or pool deck in a single weekend.


You don't need to be a contractor to install rubber pavers. The process is straightforward: prepare your base (concrete, compacted stone/gravel, asphalt, or plywood), apply adhesive if needed, add a border if needed, and lay the pavers. They cut easily with a utility knife, circular saw, bandsaw, or jig saw.

Our step-by-step installation guide (above) walks you through each method, and our team is available by phone or email if you hit any snags. Hiring a contractor is always an option, but most customers find DIY saves $3-$5 per square foot in labor costs.

Why DIY Rubber Pavers:

  • No special tools required—jig saw, chalk line, tape measure, caulk gun for adhesive
  • Cuts easily with a utility knife or standard circular saw
  • Step-by-step guide available for concrete, gravel, plywood, and asphalt bases
  • Typical DIY install time: one weekend for a standard patio
  • Save $3-$5/sq ft compared to hiring a contractor

Bottom line: Rubber pavers are one of the most DIY-friendly hardscape options. You either adhere them with polyurethane adhesive to concrete or asphalt, or loose-lay the interlocking pavers over a prepared base with a border curb.


Installation is one of rubber pavers' greatest advantages. It’s more DIY-friendly than concrete, brick, or stone paving. Our pavers can be installed via two methods: adhered installation (bonded down with polyurethane adhesive) or loose-lay installation (no adhesive, but a border is required). Loose-lay installation only applies to the 1-3/4" interlocking pavers, while adhered installation applies to either the 1-3/4" or the 1" interlocking pavers.

For detailed step-by-step guidance, scroll up to access our interactive installation guide, which walks you through the process step-by-step with visuals, or read on for a summary:

After your base is prepped (whether compacted gravel or existing concrete), sweep the area clear of debris. Determine your starting point by measuring and snapping perpendicular chalk lines across the area. Because most borders aren’t perfectly straight or square, many installations start from the center which makes the edges easier when you get to them.

For an adhered install, apply ECORE’s E-Grip III polyurethane adhesive using a 1/8" square-notch trowel, then place pavers into the wet adhesive as you go. Work in sections and do not spread more adhesive than can be covered by pavers and rolled within 30 minutes. Trim edge pavers to fit using a jigsaw with a coarse blade.

ECORE also calls out acclimation: for indoor installs, pavers (and adhesive) should be acclimated at room temperature for a minimum of 48 hours before, during, and after installation. For outdoor installs, temperature and humidity affect how quickly the adhesive sets, so installers should adjust their pace and open time accordingly.

The entire process takes 2-3 days for a typical residential project (vs. 5–7 days for concrete paving). Our interactive tutorial covers material storage, job site conditions, substrate preparation, and post-installation curing, all important for long-term performance.

Installation highlights:

  • Two methods: Adhered (polyurethane adhesive) or loose-lay interlocking (no adhesive, needs a border curb)
  • Fast timeline: 2–3 days for most projects vs 5–7+ days for concrete
  • Forgiving process: If a paver’s off, you can usually reset it before things fully set
  • Minimal tools: Jigsaw, roller, trowel, chalk line, level, no heavy equipment required
  • Forgiving process: If a paver’s off, you can usually reset it before things fully set
Woman holding a red rubber paver in a construction setting with red rubber pavers on a pallet in the background.

Bottom line: Rubber pavers stay in place either by adhesive bonding to the base (permanent install) or by simply laying them in an area surrounded by a perimeter border (loose-lay). If the base is solid and the edges are restrained, they won't shift...


Rubber pavers stay in place in two ways, depending on how you install them: mechanical interlocking (loose-lay) or adhesive bonding (adhered). The key is using the right method for your site so everything stays tight long-term.

Adhered installation (bonded down):

For adhered installs, ECORE recommends E-Grip III, a one-part polyurethane adhesive designed for rubber flooring. When it’s applied with the right trowel technique (an 1/8" square-notch trowel spreads at about 65 sq ft per gallon), it creates a strong, permanent bond between each paver and the substrate. It’s moisture-cured, meaning it hardens using humidity in the air and substrate, so there’s no mixing required. After it cures, the pavers don’t shift or creep.

Cure timeline: 24 hours for light use, 48 hours for regular/heavier use, and full cure at 72 hours.

Loose-lay installation (interlocking):

In loose-lay installs, the pavers lock together through their interlocking shape (often called a “dog-bone” pattern). That interlock helps prevent individual pavers from sliding around, while still letting the surface handle normal expansion and contraction with temperature changes. Loose-lay systems also require perimeter border curbing to keep the field contained and stop edge creep over time.

Which one should you choose?

Both are stable when installed correctly. Adhered systems are best when you want a truly permanent surface (patios, walkways, entryways). Loose-lay is great if you want the option to pull it up later, reconfigure the area, or access what’s underneath without fighting adhesive.

Stability mechanisms:

  • Adhered: E-Grip III creates a permanent, moisture-cured bond that locks pavers to the substrate
  • Loose-lay: Interlocking “dog-bone” design resists movement while allowing normal flexibility
  • Cure strength: 24 hours light use, 48 hours heavier use, full cure at 72 hours
  • Border containment: Loose-lay needs perimeter curbing to prevent edge movement
  • No shifting or creeping: Either method, installed per ECORE specs, keeps pavers tight and aligned
Ecore E-Grip III Flooring Adhesive container with a house and lawn in the background

Bottom line: Rubber pavers go over a stable, well-draining base. Outdoors that’s usually concrete or asphalt, or an engineered crushed-stone base. Indoors, they can go over a hard subfloor or plywood underlayment.


What goes under rubber pavers depends on whether you’re installing outdoors or indoors, and what you’re installing over. The base matters because it’s what prevents settling, drainage problems, and pavers shifting over time.

When installing outdoors:

ECORE lists these acceptable surfaces: concrete, asphalt, and in some cases compacted crushed stone, depending on the product and install method.

If you’re building a base on bare ground, you’re essentially creating an engineered foundation: excavate about 9 inches, then rebuild with about 6 inches of compacted crushed stone (gravel) plus about 1 inch of stone dust for leveling, and make sure it’s properly sloped for drainage. ECORE calls out a drainage slope of 1 inch in 8 LF where applicable.

One important nuance: ECORE recommends that compacted crushed stone is tied specifically to the 1-3/4" interlocking pavers for loose-lay installs, and loose-lay requires a border, reducer, or curb. They also note that movement or subsidence in a crushed-stone base can happen and those conditions are warranty exclusions, which is another reason compaction and prep matter.

If you’re installing over existing concrete or asphalt, you can typically skip gravel. Clean the surface thoroughly, then adhere the pavers using E-Grip III with a 1/8" square-notch trowel, which ECORE states yields about 65 sq ft per gallon.

When installing indoors:

You can also install over plywood/wood subfloors, but this is an interior substrate callout, not an exterior one. ECORE specifies wood subfloors should be double construction with at least 1" total thickness, rigid and free from movement, with at least 18" of well-ventilated air space below. For underlayment, they prefer APA underlayment-grade plywood, minimum 1/4", fully sanded face. Avoid using particle board, chip board/OSB, Masonite, and lauan as underlayment materials.

Base material guidance:

  • For bare soil: Excavate 9 inches, replace with 6 inches of compacted crushed stone/gravel + 1 inch of stone dust on top
  • Compaction is essential: Crushed stone must be compacted to 95% Standard Proctor density (use a vibratory plate compactor)
  • Slope for drainage: Allow 1 inch drop per 8 linear feet for water runoff (prevents pooling)...
  • For existing concrete/asphalt: No gravel needed; clean surface and adhere using ECORE specs
  • Plywood: Appropriate for indoor installs only, when built to ECORE’s wood subfloor requirements

Bottom line: Yes—concrete is the ideal base for rubber pavers. You can install directly over existing concrete using polyurethane adhesive, which creates a permanent, rock-solid bond without removing your old slab.


Installing over concrete is one of the most popular methods because it's fast, affordable, and avoids demolition costs. The concrete just needs to be clean, dry, and reasonably level (minor cracks and imperfections are fine—rubber pavers hide them).

Apply polyurethane adhesive in a thin consistent layer using a 1/8" square-notch trowel, set the pavers, and you're done. Most DIYers complete a typical patio in a single weekend. This approach works great for patios, pool decks, garage floors, and commercial entryways where tearing out the old slab would be expensive and disruptive.

Scroll up to see our interactive 'Installation Guide' to learn more about the steps involved with installing rubber pavers over concrete.

Bottom line: You can, but you shouldn’t. Rubber pavers on bare dirt almost always settle and go uneven. If you want it to last, build a proper base.


You can put rubber pavers directly on dirt, but it’s usually a short-lived install and not something we recommend. Bare soil isn’t stable. It settles unevenly, shifts with moisture and frost, and can trap water, which is why installs on dirt often end up uneven, wavy, or separating within a couple of years.

Here’s the issue: dirt has inconsistent density and it moves with frost heave in winter. When pavers sit on unprepped soil, settling is basically guaranteed. On a 500 sq ft patio, even an uneven drop of just ½ inch can create lips between pavers, gaps, and low spots where water pools, which speeds up wear and makes the surface feel “off” underfoot.

The right approach is base prep. our pavers specs call for excavating about 9 inches of soil and replacing it with about 6 inches of compacted crushed stone (gravel), topped with about 1 inch of stone dust. This engineered base creates uniform, stable support across the whole area, allows water to drain instead of pooling, and helps prevent freeze-thaw movement in cold climates. It also needs to be compacted to 95% Standard Proctor density so the surface doesn’t keep settling after the job is “done.”

If you’re installing over existing concrete or asphalt, you can usually skip the gravel, clean the surface thoroughly, and use adhesive. But for a new install on bare ground, a properly compacted gravel base is what gets you a patio that can last 15-20+ years without headaches.

Ground prep recommendations:

  • Don’t install directly on bare dirt: settling and failure are likely within 1-2 years
  • Proper base: Excavate 9 inches, install 6 inches compacted crushed stone + 1 inch stone dust
  • Compaction is mandatory: Use a vibratory plate compactor to reach 95% Standard Proctor density
  • Drainage matters: Slope 1 inch per 8 linear feet to prevent pooling
  • Existing surfaces: Over concrete or asphalt, no gravel needed, adhered installation works well
A closeup image of a green rubber paver on an outdoor dirt surface

Calculation Questions

Bottom line: Use our online paver quantity calculator to calculate how many rubber pavers you need for your job. To use the calculator, CLICK HERE.


Approximately 3.42 pavers are needed per one square foot of space. We recommend adding an extra 5% of material to accommodate for cuts, mistakes, etc. as its much easier to have a few too many pavers than not enough.

Bottom line: Use our online adhesive quantity calculator to calculate how much adhesive you need for your job. To use the calculator, CLICK HERE.


One 4-gallon pail of adhesive will yield roughly 240 sq. ft. of coverage. Therefore, buy 1 pail of adhesive for every 240 sq. ft. (or 1 pail of adhesive for every 821 pavers).

Man in a blue shirt holding a calculator outdoors while scratching his head
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